In a way, salmon roe is the perfect ingredient for this moment: Oily seafood has been enjoying a reputational glow-up, with new tinned-fish reviewers showing up on TikTok every day. At the same ...

Last week at Don Udon, a new noodle bar in Crown Heights, I slurped on bukkake udon — the dish had the name first, for the record — that I drowned in chilled, seasoned dashi before eating.