There are as many ways of making a potato salad in Germany as there are in the UK, but this is the one that has kept its German identity as it’s travelled west. A good punchy Dijon mustard is ...

For example, Ina Garten's French potato salad trades mayo for a boozy substitute, replacing a creamy dressing with one packed with fresh green herbs, mustardy vinaigrette, and a splash of white wine.